By far one of the most formal dining rooms in the city, Aujourd’hui comes close to feeling stuffy (damask linens and antique china up the mind-your-p’s-andq’s factor). But chef de cuisine William Kovel lightens things up as he plays with local ingredients, dotting grouper with cranberry bean ragout or laying Maine crab over a sunchoke purée. He’s also the rare chef who puts some energy into vegetarian options, giving nonmeat eaters something to get excited about (artichoke tortellini comes to mind). The mostly American wine list goes well with the cuisine and during the weekly epicurean evenings, those wines are paired alongside smaller dishes for a quick snapshot of the kitchen and wine staff’s talent. Book in advance if you want to beat the Brahmin regulars to the best tables overlooking the Public Garden and Boston Common.

Aujourd'hui - CLOSED Information:

• French menu. Dinner, Sunday brunch.