Forget the plain name, and overlook the fact that the intimate Avenues is in a hotel (the hotel is the Peninsula, arguably one of the top in the country, but still). You might have to tolerate a setting that’s a little more staid than luxurious—we’re still adjusting our eyes after checking out that triangular carpet pattern. Instead, try to focus on the food, as chef Curtis Duffy offers cuisine that manages to be both simple and extravagant. Duffy is relatively new here, succeeding acclaimed toque Graham Elliot Bowles (who left to start his own eponymous River North restaurant). But Duffy, who was Grant Achatz’s right-hand man at Alinea, has made Avenues all his own. He favors unusual pairings that work despite seeming contradictory: A grilled Wagyu steak comes with smoked coconut and African blue basil, and lamb is poached in tangerine oil with mint blossom. The best bet might be to take a seat at the bar in front of the open kitchen and watch Duffy work his magic.

Avenues Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday-Monday.