This warm, noisy French bistro—a hot spot of the ’90s and now a reliable standby—is a transporting experience, from the sunshine-yellow walls to the European crowd devouring steak au poivre, duck confit and other I-must-be-in-Paris staples. The brunch is among the best in town, and the smartest calls are the pillowy brioche French toast and baskets of baked goods—but don’t eat that entire croissant or you might not fit between the snugly packed tables when you get up to leave. The late-night menu keeps Balthazar bustling until after midnight seven days a week. No time for a full meal? Stop at the adjacent bakery for one of the city’s best baguettes or a crisp, buttery chocolate chip cookie to go.

Balthazar Information:

• French menu. Breakfast, lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner, Saturday-Sunday brunch.