Conveniently situated across the street from Lincoln Center, Daniel Boulud’s most laidback foray into the New York dining scene takes aim at hurried opera- and balletgoers, offering his world-class cuisine sans frills and fuss. That’s not to say, however, that you won’t pay a pretty penny for this French pub fare. You stand forewarned on both the early evening crowds and the price of your steak-frites and roasted chicken. But Boulud executes the wine bar concept fittingly. The design pays homage to the winemaking industry with a long vaulted ceiling reminiscent of a wine cellar, a gravel wall conjuring images of vineyard terroir, furnishings made from wine barrel oak. Of course chef Boulud’s menu doesn’t disappoint. The highlight here, besides the wine, are the over 18 varieties of house-made charcuterie. Best bet is to sip Burgundy wine while sharing some patés and the aioli appetizer, an olive oil-poached cod and Louisiana shrimp garlic dip with quail eggs, veg etables and mussels.

Bar Boulud Information:

• French menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner (Monday-Friday), Saturday-Sunday brunch. Bar. Casual attire. Reservations recommended. Outdoor seating.