Most restaurants serve food and enhance the experience with wine. At the cavernous Bin 36, it’s the other way around. You’ll see that love of the grape from the many wine flights served with dinner to the wine store on the premises that will sell you that wine you really liked with your dinner. “Wine Director” Brian Duncan—he refuses to be called a sommelier—offers some 50 wines by the glass, and about 300 bottles to choose from. But despite the hullabaloo about vino, the menu is hardly an afterthought: Chef John Caputo’s seafood-oriented fare includes a seared ahi tuna with herb-ricotta dumplings, and peppercorn-crusted blue marlin with mashed potatoes, onion rings and bordelaise sauce. And Bin 36 offers three different dining areas, depending on your mood: the bar, the cheese bar or at a standard table in the immaculate dining room. The wine list in the downstairs trattoria, A Mano, which the owners opened in late 2007, focuses on small producers. You can often find us seated here after 5 p.m. for the $5 menu, which includes bubbling hot pizzas and addicting polenta fries, and then grabbing a gelato from the gelato and sorbet bar on our way out. A sophisticated environment with options galore? We’ll drink to that.

Bin 36 Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.