In an almost sacrilegious move, Blackbird’s main man Paul Kahan recently handed over the apron at this spot to Mike Sheerin, formerly of New York’s famed WD-50. It’s not just that Kahan, who was named the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef in the Midwest in 2004, surrendered control—it’s also that Sheerin has brought a slight element of playfulness to Kahan’s solid menu. Now, for instance, the Tasmanian sea trout comes with cherry molasses, while the braised organic pork belly features boiled peanuts, cornbread and gumbo consommé. We love it just as much as we always have. As for the restaurant itself, it’s sleek and minimalist—but it’s not exactly roomy. Tables are packed tightly together, but we don’t mind overhearing a few conversations for food of this caliber.

Blackbird Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner. Closed Sunday.