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If there is one thing Four-Star L’Espalier is known for (beyond its delicious, masterful French food), it’s the incredible cheese course designed by maître d’ and fromager Louis Risoli. Risoli, who has been with L’Espalier for more than three decades, is passionate about cheese and has designed a program that is unparalleled in Boston, and perhaps in the country. The cheese selections come from around the globe, and Risoli selects and pairs each cheese with McClelland’s seasonal concepts and presents them on an attractive cart that’s rolled to your table for tasting and cutting. Cheese at L’Espalier can be ordered à la carte or as a course featured in the grand degustation menu. If you discover a new cheese that you like at L’Espalier, you can take it home. Most of the cheeses offered are also available for purchase direct from the restaurant. If you’ve come to L’Espalier for the fromage itself, take a seat in the Salon and order Risoli’s cleverly named cheese flights (My Blue Heaven, for example), which come in small portions ($16), medium ($24) and grand ($36).