Boulevard is the grande dame of San Francisco dining: still sexy, not quite avantgarde, but gracious. She certainly impresses upon first sight with her delicate, pre-1906 earthquake, belle époque building, with an open kitchen (sit at the counter to watch the cooks in action), swirling peacock mosaic, art nouveau light fixtures and spectacular Bay views. And she’s still up for a party: Business lunchers, couples, tourists and locals mingle here, whether dressed to the nines or sporting San Francisco casual (jeans are fine). The French-kissed American food is satisfying though a bit inconsistent. Your best bet is to order an appetizer or two (such as the dayboat sea scallops with pork belly, butternut squash and roasted chestnuts, topped with a picked squash relish) and then go for one of the grilled meats (the lamp chop one night was perfect). The superb wine list proves that like Boulevard, things often get better with age.

Boulevard Information:

• New American menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner.