Named for an area in Brazil famed for its beaches, Buzio's, in the Rio hotel (see), does its culinary part to exotically transport you from the desert locale by specializing in seafood. The atmosphere is casually elegant, the décor is modern, and an open air kitchen entertains guests in the dining area. Oysters, clams, and shrimp in various combinations star in the opening act, followed by chowders, fish, and shellfish entrées. Choices range from seafood shack standards like steamed lobster to more contemporary preparations such as wasabi-crusted ahi. Sizeable steaks and ethnic-inspired noodle dishes, such as Thai curry, stray far enough from theme to entice landlubbers. In keeping with its shoreline inspiration, Buzio's spies the Rio's pools and beach through picture windows.

Buzio's Information:

• American, Seafood menu. Dinner (Wednesday-Sunday). Bar. Casual attire. Outdoor seating. Reservations recommended.