Chef and co-owner Ken Oringer’s classical training (he was head of the class during his days at the Culinary Institute of America and has snagged a James Beard Award) takes center stage at his original restaurant, Clio. With its leopard-print carpet and creamy walls, the room is as playful as the food—for example, he likes to show off different types of eel, when in season. Fresh fish plays a big role on the menu, and for those who prefer their seafood raw, Clio has a separate sashimi bar, Uni, where for a hefty price you can nibble on bitesized spoons of sea urchin or fresh scallops. The place has a loyal following of both suited folks flexing their expense accounts and serious gourmands, but it also draws a fair number of local couples looking for a darkened corner in which to cuddle up.

Clio Information:

• French, Pan-Asian menu. Breakfast, dinner. Closed Monday.