Spilling out onto the sidewalks of the Mission with its hipster servers, loud music, slick beams-and-mirrors décor and trendy Neapolitan pizzas, Delfina defines San Francisco Cal-Italian. And it seems the city can’t get enough: Ten years after it ushered in a huge trend with its organic and house-made ingredients (pasta, sausage, gelato), Delfina still requires reservations well in advance. Maybe it’s Craig Stoll’s 2008 James Beard Award win, or maybe it’s the primo location. Most likely, it’s the food. Whether a complex mixed grill of rabbit, sausage and sweetbreads, or simple spaghetti with dead-ripe plum tomatoes and subtly aromatic olive oil, it’s hauntingly good.

Delfina Information:

• California-Italian menu. Dinner.