This cozy, chic trattoria encourages lingering. Clusters of bamboo form nests of lighting that hang above chocolate banquettes with honey-hued pillows. You’ll want to sit near the undulating sculptural wave wall in front of the glass-enclosed, blazing fireplace, a nod to the restaurant’s name, which means “flame” in Italian. The menu isn’t as contemporary as the décor, but it updates old-school Italian faves. Spaghetti comes with Kobe meatballs, ravioli is stuffed with short ribs and splashed with Barbera wine sauce and sprinkled with pecorino romano, and gnocchi become puffs of lobster instead of potato. If you’re not in the mood for pasta, choose entrées like the polipo (char-grilled octopus) or the brasato (Piemontese braised beef short ribs). Be sure to leave room for the Italian desserts. Cheesecake gelato and basil-lime sorbetto give fresh alternatives to the usual flavors, but a real treat is the crochette, crispy amaretti doughnuts that come with a trio of dunking sauces: chocolate ganache, vanilla bean glaze and strawberry jam. If you can’t eat another bite, opt for a glass of Italian wine and huddle in front of the beautiful fireplace.

Fiamma Trattoria Information:

• Italian menu. Dinner.