Culinary Director Laurent Manrique helms Fifth Floor’s spare, chic, recently redesigned dining room, where he brings the hearty food of Gascony, France—duck, foie gras, seafood— to play in sophisticated plates such as a cassoulet of duck breast, duck liver sausage, duck lardon and confit of duck leg with sugar snap peas and cranberry beans. Master Sommelier Emily Wines—yep, that’s really her name—knows her stuff. Wines and Manrique have worked out a tasting menu that goes backward from the usual wine-pairing format: She first chooses the wine and he cooks to match it. It’s a sure bet that any high-end restaurant renovation these days will include a casual lounge for bar-food nibblers and downturn diners. Fifth Floor doesn’t disappoint, with croquettes and cocktails, beer and burgers, and a nice selection of wines by the glass.

Fifth Floor Information:

• French menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday.