The tented ceiling in the main dining room of this upscale eatery provides a little drama, setting off the posh flowers and gleaming tableware to deliver a grand first impression. The food arrives in small, appealing portions, with witty nods to hearty French tradition: Alsatian Choucroute (sauerkraut) is trioed as soup, in strudel, and in fondant with caviar; boneless quail with roasted parsnips, leeks and foie gras. The wine list is thoughtful, offering pairing options with à la carte meals and with the omnivore or vegetarian tasting menus. Service, a Fleur de Lys hallmark, is classic and professional, and the bar makes a cozy stop for pre- or post-dinner drinks.

Fleur de Lys Information:

• French menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday.