Gary Danko boasts the most tableside dazzle in town, including tea service, caviar service, cheese cart and flambéed desserts. The décor is theatrical, too, with large paintings, dim lighting, and a bathroom so large and luxurious it’s practically a spa. But it’s not all looks and no substance: The tea is rare and steeped to perfection; and the cheeses are a kaleidoscope of different styles, animals and continents. The wine list may read like a dictionary, but your smart and very friendly server will happily guide you through it. The food is a blend of California, French and Mediterranean with dishes such as lobster risotto and quail stuffed with mushrooms, quinoa and foie gras; you can order three, four or five courses or go for the tasting menu. Everything’s available at the bar, making Danko a smart stop for a swanky last-minute meal.

Gary Danko Information:

• California, French menu. Dinner. Bar. Business casual attire. Reservations recommended. Valet parking.