Gotham Bar and Grill opened in 1984 and proves that, just like bangs and skinny jeans, some holdovers from the ’80s just get trendier with age. Acclaimed chef Alfred Portale is a perfectionist who pioneered architecturally inspired food presentation. His edible compositions—the roasted Maine lobster is presented with lobster claws wrapped around the tail, which sit atop spaghetti squash along with potato purée and toasted brussels sprout halves—are the stuff of true epicurean delight. Bright and airy with stylish, silk-draped lighting and not a hint of vanity, this landmark feels like a comfortable pair of jeans, albeit with a high-end designer label.

Gotham Bar and Grill Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner.