Charming Gramercy Tavern is self-assured without being flashy and comfortable without being dull, making it a favorite upscale dining choice for everyone from expense-account suits to fashionistas and serious foodies wondering if the Chioggia beets came from the farmers market down the street (they probably did). Chef Michael Anthony has filled the big toque left behind by Tom Colicchio, and he has infused the classic menu with creative flourishes—from onion-and-pistachio marmalade in the duck terrine to smoked lobster—that keep you on your toes just when you think you’ve got the place pegged. Try one of its specialties like a marinated calamari and carrot salad or fontina cheese-stuffed meatball, and for dessert, warm chocolate bread pudding. The long bar is a perfect perch from which to enjoy the à la carte menu, plates of cheese and wines by the glass.

Gramercy Tavern Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner.