It would be impossible to pass Great NY Noodletown off as your own private discovery. Anointed years ago by rave reviews, this bright corner spot continues to draw crowds all day and late into the night. Press in and enjoy the bustle. This is not the place for complicated dishes. Treat Great NY Noodletown like a Chinese version of your local coffee shop: avoid preparations that have more than two ingredients and you'll do well. The roast meats are top-notch, particularly the crisp-skinned baby pig. Greens are basic and fresh, and perfectly cooked noodles, naturally, are a strong point. When summer comes, the salt-baked soft-shell crab is a must, juicy and tasting of the sea, as much of a New York ritual as a trip to Coney Island.

Great NY Noodletown Information:

• Chinese menu. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, late-night. Bar. Casual attire. No credit cards accepted.