Jack’s has been a French restaurant since 1864, so when it went up for sale in 2003, everyone worried about losing a San Francisco classic. Napa Valley’s Philippe Jeanty swooped in to save the day, importing his lauded bistro fare. The menu remains classic: creamy tomato soup sporting a golden beret of puff pastry; plump, garlicky escargots; tender and warm coq au vin; flavorful steak and golden, crispy frites. A switchback staircase, vintage menus, old-fashioned music, high ceilings and an antique ice cream cart provide a thoroughly Parisian brasserie setting, but where you sit will determine how happy you’ll be. The 10-table ground floor is the most intimate, while the elevator ride to the less-charming upper dining rooms feels like you’re being led into exile. The downside here is that service is brisk, even brusque, but you might just consider that part of the authentic atmosphere. In any case, the comforting food makes up for it.

Jeanty at Jack's Information:

• French menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday). dinner.