Succulent steaks in old Las Vegas

31 Tables

Edge Steakhouse in Westgate Las Vegas Resort & Casino wasn’t around to have played a role in the town’s Rat Pack heyday, but you would never know it from the fine service and throw-back atmosphere.

The Spot

While the flashy center and south Strip, with their miniature approximations of France, Italy and New York, do solid work as billboards for those destinations, it’s the north end of the Strip and downtown that do the heavy lifting for the notion of Old Las Vegas. Although the Sahara has yielded to the SLS, and the Hilton has been supplanted by Westgate, resist the urge to pass them up for newer notions. You might be overlooking fresh new concepts on hallowed grounds.

The Approach

Edge Steakhouse opened in July 2015 in the former Burger Bistro footprint. At 3,270 square feet and located across the way from Benihana, the Vegas steakhouse seats nearly 200, and features an intimate bar, an octagonal main dining room, a secondary dining room and two private rooms. Housed within one of the private dining rooms is a portion of Edge’s extensive wine library — more than 450 selections, including Premier Grand Cru Château Margaux, Latour, Haut-Brion and Napa Valley favorites, such as Screaming Eagle, but also by-the-glass darlings such as the Prisoner Wine Company. The full menu of modern steakhouse fare, as well as an abbreviated menu, are available in the bar and lounge area, which is warmly lit by red and clear crystal chandeliers.

The Bar

In the wood-paneled bar and lounge there is a communal table for eight, two bistro-height tables and six seats at the bar. Go all in on a bottle or pair by-the-glass wines with each course. If cocktails are the object, inquire what’s aging in the diminutive barrel. Behind the bottles, a large silver-framed flat-screen TV is tuned to the main event of the moment, and behind that sits a tiled mosaic that breaks up the dark wood. Elsewhere Klimt, Renoir, Van Gogh and other masters’ prints dot the walls — who says there’s no culture in Las Vegas?

The Food

It’s easy to imagine Edge’s main dining room as a place to power-dine. Here, all eyes are on the centermost table, which is flanked by decorative columns. The Vegas restaurant’s guests run the gamut from CEOs and sports executives to conventioneers and moon-eyed couples. As this is a steakhouse, beef — specifically Snake River Farms American and Miyazaki Japanese wagyu, and Niman Ranch prime — is the obvious choice. But first come the house-baked popovers: hollow, chewy skins that instantly melt a ramekin of whipped butter. Like a certain famed doughnut, you’ll want to catch them fresh from the oven. A zingy Caesar salad can be prepared tableside for parties of two or more, and the Edge Salad, with butter lettuce, avocado and grilled asparagus, comes topped in a flurry of housemade fingerling potato chips.

While steak is the focus here, it’s not the only option. Even the humble roasted chicken — Mary’s Chicken, for those who know, in dark demi glace — is served in Le Creuset bakeware with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, asparagus and mushrooms in pan jus. Whether you choose the spotlight or the shadows, service is a mixture of formal and friendly, but never strays into casual. Management is present, but never obsequious.

The Deal

Edge comes to Las Vegas by way of tony Park City, Utah, where it’s an Old Town staple (and a Forbes Travel Guide Recommended winner). It’s already hitting its stride in Vegas. The Edge staff confirms that during big conventions held at this partial timeshare hotel with 300 timeshare villas and 1,200 remodeled Signature Rooms, when the steakhouse’s doors open at 5 p.m., the place can fill up by 5:05 p.m. So make reservations or arrive early if you prefer not to live on the edge.

DETAILS - Insider Information About This Restaurant

DETAILS - Insider Information About This Restaurant