There may be a trattoria in every North End storefront, but picking one that actually goes beyond red sauce is a chore. Head straight to Mamma Maria, a romantic spot (at least when it’s less crowded) that tries hard to veer away from cheesy pastas and generic meat sauces. The dining rooms are packed into a 19th-century brick townhouse (close to Paul Revere’s house) that gives you an excuse to cozy up to someone you like. In the winter, the menu is filled with slowly braised sauces and meats to warm your bones; spring and summer find locally sourced asparagus, ramps and mushrooms tossed into a number of pastas and salads. If you’re a sucker for classics, order the pasta Bolognese with homemade porcini pasta—even your grandma can’t make it this good.

Mamma Maria Information:

• Italian menu. Dinner.