Marché is hardly what you call subtle: Its light-filled dining room is packed with flamboyant touches, from gargantuan red lampshades hanging from the high ceilings to large metal bookshelves teeming with antique cameras and globes. But there’s some serious culinary work going on behind the Moulin Rouge décor, and the open kitchen gives you the opportunity to see chef Matt Tobin prepare dishes like his adored duck à la Montmorency, which is grilled over appleand cherry wood. The classic French menu also features standbys like moules mariniere and a lamb shank with tomato confit and sugar carrots, while the dessert options include a decadent plat à trois chocolats and a sumptuous classic crème brûlée. Come hungry, and come early unless you enjoy a little rowdiness with your frites—this place gets enjoyably boisterous as the night goes on.

Marché Information:

• French menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner.