With its subtly changing light scheme and cosmo-sipping, air-kissing crowd, the slick N9NE occasionally gets criticized for being more of a scene than a restaurant (albeit one with a hip club, Ghostbar, on the second floor). But whoever says that likely hasn’t delved into the menu, which features huge, prime-aged steaks and chops, augmented with a Maine lobster tail or Alaskan crab legs for a reasonable $23. There’s also a wide array of seafood options, including a creamy shrimp risotto and a miso-marinated cod with scallions and shiitake mushrooms. Bolstering the restaurant’s argument is a caviar service, offering Russian caviar by the ounce. And anyway, would a steakhouse dedicated only to the see-andbe- seen crowd offer a $26 hamburger? They must be doing something right, as this spot begat the N9NE/Ghost Bar in Las Vegas and Dallas.

Nine Information:

• Steakhouse menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner. Closed Sunday