The classic, dark-wood floors and cream-colored booths inside this historic Beacon Hill townhouse may not scream excitement. That reaction is reserved for the food, as award-winning chef Barbara Lynch (of B&G Oysters LTD) and The Butcher Shop uses local produce to churn out some of the city’s most celebrated fare. She plays with both Italian and French techniques, giving herself the freedom to constantly re-create the contemporary menu, but a few winning dishes never stray far from the list, including the prune-stuffed gnocchi topped with a healthy serving of seared foie gras, and the crispy pork belly with braised Belgian endive and jalapeño aioli. The whole staff is trained under wine director Cat Silirie, so every server poses as a de facto sommelier ready with the story behind just about every bottle on the list. The bar staff, meanwhile, is helping lead a revival of the city’s cocktail scene—the smooth vodka-lime Palmyra is a local favorite.

No. 9 Park Information:

• French, Italian menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Sunday.