When he opened One Market in 1993, Bradley Ogden was a rising star with a quirky, pioneering take on farm-fresh New American food, as exemplified by a huge, witty à la carte menu. Over the years, said menu didn’t change much, and so One Market settled into a reliably upscale destination for Financial District power diners. Enter Ogden’s latest executive chef, Mark Dommen, who has updated the basic-andfresh style with modern twists (think foie gras emulsions and smoked sea salt). He’s also kept the à la carte choices on the menu but added full plates, with sides specially made to go with the entrées. The enormous, efficient dining room isn’t romantic, but the very good desserts are—especially the homemade ice cream and Ogden’s signature butterscotch pudding. It can feel like the entire cast of Office Space is here during happy hour—you decide whether that’s a good or a bad thing.

One Market Information:

• American menu. Lunch (Monday-Friday), dinner (Monday- Saturday). Closed Sunday.