Chef Terrance Brennan’s French-Mediterranean cuisine continues to impress at Picholine, which opened in 1993 and seems to get more distinguished with age. The refined menu lacks the fussiness of some French restaurants—you won’t find overly rich sauces and heavy, buttery entrées here—but it doesn’t skimp on the elegance. The fare is simple, seasonally driven and clean in construction: Hearty rabbit comes with tender baby leeks and wild snails, while flaky halibut is poached in olive oil and served with a medley of seasonal marinated vegetables. Pull up to the bar and try the cheese flights, which are organized by country of origin and make a good pre- or post-theater treat. The service is poised in the windowless lavender dining room, which gets its sparkle from an enormous chandelier overhead.

Picholine Information:

• French menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday during summer.