For old-fashioned restaurant razzle-dazzle distinct from contemporary Vegas interpretations, cop a table at Pietro's. The namesake is Pietro Musetto, who garnered a following of fans at the now-vanished Dunes and several Tropicana restaurants before this one. They come to see the friendly Pietro, of course, but more importantly to watch the tableside preparations of steak Diane and flaming crepes. Classics like lobster bisque and chateaubriand also anchor the menu. The tuxedoed waiters and deluxe table settings keep it classy.

Pietro's Information:

• American, French menu. Dinner. Closed Mon-Tues.