Some consider the “star” rolls at this unassuming sushi restaurant to be the best in Laguna Beach. Fresh-fish delicacies are cut and arranged like mini-masterpieces for diners’ delectation—and with flavor to match their splendid visual presentation, they are enough to divert one’s attention from the room’s generally mirthful air, if not the awesome bay view. The California roll, a word-of-mouth favorite with its spicy snap, may well have you dreaming.

San Shi Go Information:

• Japanese, sushi menu. Lunch Tuesday-Friday, dinner.