This may be the closest you’ll get to Japan without hopping on a plane. The minimalist Sugiyama (tiny bamboo lanterns offer minimal sparkle to an otherwise spartan, booth-filled space) offers innovative and interesting takes on traditional Japanese food that you won’t find elsewhere in the city. It specializes in kaiseki, three-, five- or eight-course seasonal tasting menus that emphasize harmony in flavor, texture, color and shape. The menu typically progresses from cold dishes (mixed greens with Japanese mushrooms) to hot (beef tenderloin grilled on a hot stone), producing a taste bud-pleasing medley of flavors and sensations. A chef’s-choice kaiseki menu (called omakase) is also available.

Sugiyama Information:

• Japanese menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday-Monday.