What does Philip Krajeck think of the evolution of fine dining?
There was a moment in time where people perceived good food as being expensive and elitist. Now, I think good food has been democratized. For better or worse, food television has made people more aware of the options. There are more restaurants that have an accessible price point but are still cooking interesting food that has strong ethics and a perspective. And separately from that, there are high-end, extremely focused and technical chefs that are pushing boundaries of what fine French cooking was. There are so many interesting things going on. Food is really exciting right now.
An example in Nashville is The Catbird Seat. You have chefs that have trained under some of the best chefs in the world. But they’re doing something at a fairly affordable price point relative to the amount of labor and cost of ingredients. They are cooking with detail and you’re eating 10 courses, but it’s stripped down. They’re serving you the food, they’re talking to you and you’re watching them sweat over the stove — so it’s kind of taking away the pomp and I like that.