If you want a stellar dining experience in a large, beautifully understated room with perfectly attuned service, make a reservation at Tru, the partnership of chef Rick Tramonto and pastry chef Gale Gand. The gorgeous surroundings include an original Andy Warhol, and the food is equally inspiring. Tru offers different ways to take advantage of Tramonto’s work, including a three-course prix fixe and a nine-course “collections” tasting menu. The offerings include a delicate salmon poached in olive oil with Granny Smith apples and coconut, and a braised beef short rib with unagi and scallion pistou. Practically anything at Tru will delight, but we especially recommend the caviar staircase appetizer, which serves several different types of roe on an elegant glass spiral stairway. Even the bathrooms here, with their sinks made up solely of large slanted glass panels, are a sight.

Tru Information:

• Contemporary American menu. Dinner. Closed Sunday.