Italian cuisine can either be very humble and rustic, or it can be highly refined and extravagant. Sometimes, however, there is a pleasant blending of the two, and Valentino is it. This signature Venetian spot is spacious and beautifully appointed, and has six private dining rooms in addition to the main rooms, including an intimate wine cellar room that can seat four and an exclusive chef’s table for up to six people. The menu is, of course, Italian, concentrating on traditional flavors with elegant presentations. Many ingredients are imported directly from Italy for optimum authenticity in flavor, and the menu changes seasonally. One of the mainstays, the pollo al mattone is a simple, flavorful roast chicken butterflied and cooked flat under a brick, served with a creamy Spanish risotto. While you’re piling on the carbs, go for the three-color gnocchi with rabbit sausage, mushrooms and a cream demi-glace sauce—it’s actually lighter than it sounds. The wine list is staggering, with about 2,500 selections, and service is impeccable.

Valentino Information:

• Italian menu. Dinner, late-night.