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Without a doubt, the best way to get an overview of both the antique and modern components of Jerusalem is to take the Ramparts Walk along the walls of the Old City. This pathway is best explored in the early morning, and you’ll see the Muslim Quarter and the rest of the city waking up within the walls. The entrances to the ramparts are located near most of the Old City gates.
Next head into the Old City and get a glimpse of the Wailing Wall, as well as the neighboring Temple Mount. After that, check out the cantilevered cable bridge near the central bus station, as a modern counterpoint to all the ancient history. For a midday feast, make sure to take in Mahane Yehuda, the biggest and busiest fresh food market in Jerusalem and an absolutely delightful assault on the senses. Spices, dried fruits, nuts, meats and more extend as far as the eye can see and nose can smell, with bakeries, cafés and restaurants interspersed throughout the crowded market streets. Fridays are especially busy and dizzying here, with the city-wide preparation for the Sabbath.
For an afternoon break from the city, head to Ein Kerem, the picturesque village thought to be birthplace of St. John the Baptist. If you have time, hike through the wadis or dried riverbeds in the surrounding forest.
To complete your day, dine at Turkish Bourekas restaurant on Jaffa Street, with decadent bourekas served with hardboiled egg, tahini and pickles in an establishment open 24 hours daily except on the Sabbath.