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The service at Mr & Mrs Bund revolves around what chef Paul Pairet thinks family-style dining should be all about: It’s served by a relaxed, unfussy but knowledgeable waitstaff clad in white button-down shirts with black elbow pads, black suspenders, denim and Converse sneakers. Dishes are not served formally and placed in front of you just so. Instead, they are laid out in the center of the table so that everyone can share (just as traditional Chinese meals are often served). Several dishes at Mr & Mrs Bund are served from a specially designed trolley, which lets you observe the expert execution of the waitstaff in tasks like cutting fine cheeses and slicing smoked salmon into perfect even pieces.