It's an oft repeated statistic but Wellington has more cafes and restaurants per head of population than New York. From silver service to cheap and cheerful ethnic places, there's something for every palate and wallet. When you want to impress, check out Logan Brown. Situated in an ornate old bank, the restaurant defines class and style. Their paua ravioli is to die for and they risk causing a riot if they ever take it off menu. Just down the road is The Matterhorn, favored by the cool kids, where you go to see and be seen — and to eat some of the most innovative New World cuisine this side of the equator. Sweet Mother's Kitchen, at the top of Courtenay Place, attracts more tattoos and piercings who channel New Orleans with the delicious po' boys, curly fries and key lime pie. And for those days when only a curry or laksa will do, there is no shortage of simple, nourishing and good Asian food to fill the belly.