What is brunch like at Four Seasons Hotel Chicago?

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Jennifer Kester

Four Seasons Chicago’s Allium restaurant serves a decadent four-course Sunday brunch, but it’s best enjoyed with a group. Inside the cozy wood-paneled dining room, sit on one of the olive-and-mauve loveseats and prepare for chef Kevin Hickey’s prix-fixe feast. Get a sugary start with sticky pecan pull-apart bread and your choice of aperitif — a mimosa, rotating brunch punch or beloved local beer 312 Urban Wheat Ale from Goose Island. It’s followed by a family-style course — my favorite part of the brunch — with a whimsical presentation. A mini Ferris wheel offers shared plates of hiramasa crudo, charcuterie, roasted beets with Chèvre, shrimp cocktail, oyster shooters and smoked-salmon-and-potato pizettes. For the next course, everyone gets to choose an entrée; I opted for the tender Wagyu skirt steak and eggs doused with truffle hollandaise, but the Wisconsin walleye with sunchoke mashed potatoes and grapefruit vinaigrette is a good back-up. The Chicago hotel closes the heavy meal with a buffet of housemade sweets, including berry cheesecake in a cup, strawberry shortcake and red velvet cupcakes. But save your last bit of appetite for the ice cream sandwich station, where a friendly pastry chef will make you a snickerdoodle treat that will have you coming back for seconds (and maybe even thirds).

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