A chic Colorado steakhouse
One of the first things you may notice about Edge Restaurant & Bar, a swank steakhouse in Four Seasons Hotel Denver, is that the living-room-sized chairs are mostly filled with suits. While some of these tall, dark and handsome suits have accommodations in the hotel, a lot of the clientele at Edge is made up of professionals around the downtown area. This doesn't mean you need a tie to get a table — in fact, you can come dressed in just about anything and enjoy a fine meal by executive chef Simon Purvis, an Englishman who has headed this Denver kitchen pretty much since it opened.
However, just because you can dine in your hiking gear doesn't mean you should forget that this open, wood-and-stone-adorned steakhouse is a fine-dining establishment. Often you will find opera, ballet and theater goers nibbling away before a show at the Denver Performing Arts Complex, which resides right across the street. All of these people come to this 185-seat restaurant for a menu rife with local meats, chic farm-to-table sides and classic American-cuisine options.
For carnivores, you have a hefty menu of steaks, Colorado bison grilled over pecan wood, a memorable dry-aged pork chop and luscious local lamb chops. Edge also serves plenty of fresh fish dishes, a feat considering Denver is in a land-locked state. Options include Alaskan halibut with seasonal sides like spring peas and morel mushrooms, dover sole in an almond-brown-butter sauce and a simple artic char dressed with lemon-caper butter. In true steakhouse fashion, you can top any of these dishes with even more ambrosial fun, for example, a New York strip loin laden with pan-seared foie gras, or jumbo sea scallops crowned with some lump crab and citrus hollandaise.
No matter what you decide to order, the friendly waiters, maître d', bartenders and managers will all tell you to get a side of Salomon's sauce, a dish named after one of the owners that consists of sliced jalapeños marinated in lime, sea salt, pepper and olive oil. Slab it on the fresh bread that’s brought to the table, put it on a steak or give your house Caesar salad a streak of heat. Speaking of vegetables, the Denver restaurant also has seasonal offerings that have included gems like the blueberry and kale salad with watermelon radishes and a creamy lemon dressing; sauteed forest mushrooms; spring peas with smoked ricotta and lemon balm; and simple wood-grilled artichokes.
Of course, no meal is complete without dessert, and in this department pastry chef Ryan Schmitt has got you covered. If you long for something elegant and light, the rose macaroon with champagne sabayon and strawberry rose water is a winning choice. Those in need of a chocolate fix, the triple chocolate cake with raspberry jam and ganache is definitely a contender. Or save room for a little coffee and doughnuts, too — the fresh pastries come flavored with brown butter and honey.
If you aren't jetting off to a show, grab a nightcap in the Edge Bar. The late-night bar serves 50 wines by the glass, local beer and innovative craft cocktails. For a true Colorado spirit, get the Horse's Neck, a drink made with locally distilled Steward's Solera bourbon whiskey, Cocktailpunk Pastiche Bitters and Fever Tree Ginger Beer. All of this can also be had during your meal, so don't dismay if you can't park at the bar.
The Denver steakhouse does breakfast, lunch and dinner every day along with a weekend brunch. And if you stay at the hotel, you can get room service straight from Edge's kitchen. It also offers three private dining rooms right off the main area and next to the kitchen. The private chef's table has views of the hard-at-work staff as it whips together your meal, a treat both to watch and consume.