Per Se bears the same blue front doors as The French Laundry (its country cousin in Napa Valley) and has similar high-end flourishes (like nine varieties of salt), as well as chef Thomas Keller's legendary "oysters and pearls" signature dish of Island Creek oysters, creamy tapioca and caviar. The 64-seat Per Se in the Time Warner Center, with its neutral brown palette and silver accents, feels more cosmopolitan and overtly ambitious in ways the pastoral French Laundry is not. Yet at its heart, Per Se offers the fine-dining indulgences fans worship Keller for (artisanal butter; a fierce focus on fresh ingredients), and it'll still take you five hours to stuff yourself silly on foie gras and truffles as a cavalcade of servers fawns over you. (The daily changing nine-course tasting menu — vegetarian option available — is $295, and a $185 five-course lunch menu is available Friday through Sunday.) So what if the East Coast setting is a bit more buttoned-up? You won't miss the original a bit.