Gary Danko boasts the most tableside dazzle in town, including tea service, caviar service, cheese cart and flambéed desserts. The décor is theatrical with large paintings, dim lighting, and a bathroom so large and luxurious it’s practically a spa. But it’s not all looks and no substance: The tea is rare and steeped to perfection; and the cheeses are a kaleidoscope of different styles, animals and continents. The wine list may read like a dictionary, but your smart and very friendly server will happily guide you through it. The food is a blend of California, French and Mediterranean.