A revamped auto barn with black décor, overstuffed leather seats, an imposing backlit bar and a glowing wine cabinet, Spruce feels like an updated steakhouse. The dry martini has been replaced by fancier quaffs, and the American menu boasts far more than beef — but the self-satisfied, no-surprises vibe is the same. The food can be downright delicious (caramelized scallops with provençal vegetables; duckfat-fried potatoes), but the kitchen and service suffer from unevenness. Come for the scene and the staggering wine list, which is so amazing that there’s a page for each vinification of a single grape from a single country (for example, riesling and Germany). Spruce is great for lunch, if you’re willing to travel to the sleepy neighborhood, shell out $14 for a tasty burger, and avoid a third glass of wine, should you have things to do later in the day.