A classic steakhouse in Hong Kong
The Bostonian, on the lower lobby level of The Langham, Hong Kong in Tsim Sha Tsui, serves fare that used to define a certain kind of special-occasion dining in the States: thick steaks, grilled seafood, lobster, potatoes several ways. This concept could come off as woefully dated or a gimmick, but at The Bostonian it’s neither.
The welcome is warm and professional, as it is throughout the Langham. The comfortable dining room offers large, well-spaced tables; red walls; and dark brown upholstery on the booths that line the space’s perimeter. Two things make it interesting: the vibrant collection of contemporary art that fills almost every inch of wall space, and the sparkling display of oysters, live lobsters and fresh fish near the entrance that will surely tempt any serious seafood lover (and Hong Kong is a city full of them).
During lunch, an appetizer buffet provides a generous array of salads, a raw bar, meats and cheeses to graze on, and you get a choice of a main course and dessert. A copious brunch is served on Sundays.
At dinner, however, it’s à la carte, with a menu of classic dishes with contemporary touches that keep it from feeling staid. For starters, there are pulled beef sliders, crab cakes, French onion soup and chowder (it’s called The Bostonian, after all). There’s a lobster salad, a classic Caesar and a seasonal organic choice. Main courses include a few pastas (seafood risotto, cannelloni filled with spinach and ricotta), some meat and poultry (soy-glazed pork ribs, chicken), fresh fish (salmon, wild snapper) topped with a selection of sauces. But steak and lobster are the real stars. The steaks are American Angus and Australian Prime, well-aged and grilled. The lobster is from Maine, served grilled or steamed and is accompanied by your choice of sauce. For the best of both worlds, go for the classic surf and turf.
Big steaks and lobsters require big wines, and The Bostonian comes through with a notable international list. And if you have room, the dessert menu may include chocolate mousse, lemon cheesecake and — what else? — Boston cream pie.