Meat purists will want to sink their teeth into the prime cuts here. Chef Tom Colicchio, who also moonlights as the exacting head judge on Bravo's Top Chef, goes by the philosophy that simpler is better. That goes for the dining room, too, which is plainly decorated with wooden tables without tablecloths, bare branches in vases and spare bulbs dangling from the ceiling. When it comes to food, Colicchio refuses to let fancy sauces or complicated preparations take away from the meat. But fewer ingredients don't mean fewer choices: You can have your piece of protein roasted, grilled or braised; you can get cuts from Idaho, New York or Australia; you can opt for corn-fed or grass-fed beef; and you'll have to pick from sizes ranging from six to 32 ounces. A solid option is the Kobe skirt steak. If you're not a meat fan, go for the shellfish sampler, a tempting platter teeming with fresh chilled lobster salad, Alaskan king crab, oysters and clams. At a back-to-basics restaurant like this, when it comes time for dessert, stick to the classics and get the sinful chocolate soufflé with espresso ice cream doused with caramel sauce.

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