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In a word, Tokyo is complex. At first glance, this capital city, which houses more than 13 million people in just 845 square miles, is a modern metropolis, with looming skyscrapers, crowded subways, and department stores that occupy entire blocks. But if you slow down, stroll the streets and venture outside of Tokyo proper, you’ll find the Japan you read about in travel guides and magazines and then some. Tokyo is made up of 23 wards, each with its own distinct character and charm. You can walk through a live fish auction, visit ancient Buddhist temples, explore museums, even wander the gardens of the Imperial Palace — all in one day in the most populous area in Japan.