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Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong's Caprice has a huge variety of wines, including special and rare bottles. All told, the restaurant has 1,500 labels in its cellar, ranging from easy drinking Loire Valley whites such as the Chinon Les Chanteaux from the Domaine Couly-Dutheil (RMB470/US$75) to vintage champagne like a 1995 Krug Clos d’Ambonnay (RMB44,500/US$7,067). You can go even higher into the stratosphere if you’re seeking the most-prized premier crus on the planet.
As you would expect, there’s an emphasis on reds from Bordeaux and Burgundy. There are several Pauillac Bordeaux from the very best years, such as the 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild (RMB118,000/US$18,739), and six Chateau Mouton Rothschild vintages to choose from at the Hong Kong restaurant.
From Burgundy, and the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the 1969 La Tache costs RMB75,000 (US$11,911), and the 2005 Romanée-Conti will run you RMB170,000 (US$27,010) — the most expensive bottle on the list.
There’s a great selection of mid-priced white wines from the Loire and also from Alsace. The 2008 Crémant d’Alsace Brut from the Domaine Mann (RMB550/US$87) is an interesting option for a lighter sparkling wine. It’s less creamy than champagne but still nicely dry with a slight floral touch. Lesser-known regions of France such as the Jura and Languedoc are also represented.
The wine list is naturally heavy on European choices, but extends to Slovenia, Hungary and Lebanon. A white and a red from Grace Vineyard, China’s best-known high-end winery, is also available.
The South African selection is small but crafted well. You’ll find whites from Hamilton Russell — the 2010 chardonnay costs RMB500 (US$79) — and a 2008 Hartenberg chardonnay at RMB450 (US$72). There’s also one of the best examples of a pinotage, a uniquely South African varietal, from Kanonkop for RMB620 (US$99).